October 13, 2023 INDEX

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Royal National Park is inland from the eastern coastline of Australia, just south of Sydney, says Google. It's easy and cheap to get to since you can get a train from Sydney Central Station and use the Opal card to take you to Waterfall Station.

The park is inhabited by kookaburras, lyre birds and echidnas, or so they say. I saw and heard none of these, but I did come across a solitary wallaby (or possibly kangaroo).

I took the 6km path to Uloola Falls, You can see a photo of this. It's a pretty steep and nasty precipice even by British Lake District standards, but there's only at most a drizzle of water.

The stand out thing here is the toilets, built to serve the camp site around the falls. To get to the toilet you have to climb 150 metres up what looks like a dry river bed filled with large jagged rocks. This is not a camp site where you ought to be going to the loo in the middle of the night.

The path I took was more like a public highway than a track. Presumably it's needed either as a fire break or to enable the fire service to get vehicles from one side of the park to the other.

Thanks to the tree cover, even in the blazing sunshine it wasn't unpleasantly hot. Coming back from the falls I actually felt cool and considered putting a jacket on. All the same you are sternly warned to take supplies of water with you and, of course, I had a couple of bottles.

Under the trees there was very little sign of life; the odd small lizard and a few butterflies but that was it. Extraordinarily there was little or no bird song. I had expected a Crocodile Dundee style cacophony of shrill bird calls, but there was little or nothing. The odd single bird but no chorus. This is a pity because according to the Museum of Australia in Sydney large Australian birds (like the ubiquitous Ibis or the Cockatoo) have made a good job of adapting to city life; small birds less so.

I had hoped to see a lot of small birds in the park but if they were there they were pretty shy. Perhaps Australian small birds don't live in forested areas?
INDEX
Jonathan Brind
October 13, 2023