WALTHAMSTOW MARSHES: The Fen in the City FACT SHEET [1979] Location: East of River Lea, South of Coppermill Stream and reservoirs, and North of Leyton Marsh playing fields. Railways divides the Marshes into three sections: North Marsh; South Marsh; and The Triangle. Over the River Lea from North Marsh is Springfield Park, in Hackney. Access: North end via Coppermill Lane - Car Park by very low railway bridge (cattle creep). South end from Lea Bridge along towpath (Prince of Wales P.H.) Car Park by Pub. Café at bottom of Spring Hill over River (open all year) Café in Springfield Park (not open in Winter). Description Last expanse of natural marshland left within London. 88 acres. All others dumped-on (e.g. Leyton Marsh, Hackney Marsh) or developed (e.g. Reservoirs to N and gravel workings further N). Most of the land surface has lain undisturbed since the Ice Age. Has never been ploughed. Topsoil silt and peat. Gravel underneath! In Summer, water table lies few feet below surface but in Winter large tracts become submerged despite fact that River Lea no longer floods. (Flood Relief channel constructed in 1950s). HISTORICAL It is said that in King Alfred's time many of wild marshes along River Lea were drained to make grazing possible and became common land - good meadow land was in very short supply. Drained marshland produced a rich crop of hay which was vital to rural economics. The channel which drained Walthamstow Marshes is still visible, crossing the superimposed pattern of railways. John Coe's map (1822) in Vestry House Museum shows Marshes divided up into strips - this was the Lammas system which lasted centuries until 1934 when rights were extinguished and Marshes became Public Open Space. Strips were not, and ownership was only operative in the hay season (April to August) when grazing was not allowed. Each strip holder had share of hay crop. Outline of some strips can still be detected (drainage ditches). Railways built 1850-70 Later were to prove barrier to development, particularly in 1950s when Walthamstow wanted to extract gravel. Railway blocked drainage system and returned Walthamstow Marshes to undrained condition. A.V. Roe's Historic Flight First all-British flight took place on Walthamstow Marshes in 1909. Tiny tri-plane constructed in workshop under railway viaduct arches where railway crosses River Lea. Roe went on to found Avro aircraft company. Tri-plane on display in Science Museum. Wings were covered in oiled paper. War Years 1939-45 Anti-invasion trenches dug in 1940 - filled back in 1949. Can still be detected by linear vegetation pattern and hollows. Pond on South Marsh caused by V2 rocket (now sadly in need of restoration because of dumping). Lee Valley Regional Park Authority bought land in 1971 and constructed Springfield Marina. They want to extract gravel from Marshes. NATURAL HISTORY Flood Wetter parts of Marshes have beautiful mixed-fen vegetation, i.e. large expanses of sedge (beautiful in flower in May) distinctly zoned from stands of Reed Sweet Grass (Glyceria maxima) and Reed Grass (Phalaris arundinacea). Latter grow to 5 and 6 ft. Two large Reed Beds - North Marsh (3 acres) and South Marsh. Reeds grow to 2.5m (8ft) and are at their best in Winter. Reed Mace ("bulrush" misnamed) - especially in Coppermill Stream. Tufted Hair-Grass - ancient grassland indicator. Yellow Flag - in railway ditches and Stream. Marsh Horsetails. Comfrey. Sallows - only 7 years old, next to Marina - grew because of silt dumping. Seasonal "change of clothes" in drier areas: Spring : Comfrey, Cow parsley etc. Summer : Meadowsweet Late Summer : Michaelmas Daisies in abundance. In all, 350 plant species recorded. Insects 17 species of butterfly breed on the Marshes. Important colony of Essex Skippers. Breeding ground for colourful butterflies which visit our gardens. Dragonflies and damselflies, particularly at Coppermill Stream. Crickets call noisily in Summer. Birds Warblers - Sedge and Reed (Reed Beds) - and Reed Buntings. Finches - flocks of Goldfinches and Greenfinches feeding on thistles etc. Stonechats, Skylarks etc. Herons always flying over from reservoirs feed on ground on Marshes in Winter. Kestrels - always several hunting. Snipe and waders in Winter. Small animals Lots of voles and shrews. Harvest Mice strip phalaris reed grass for nesting material. Frogs to be seen in Spring - spawn in ditches and reed beds. Other features Many other features of historical/geographical interest in the immediate vicinity. The Old Coppermill, for example (hence Coppermill Lane). Now a listed building. References to a Powder Mill here in 1600s, later a rolling mill for rolling copper. References "Walthamstow Marshes and Lammas Rights" by G.A. Blakeley (Vestry House Museum). Coe Map (Vestry House Museum) A.V. Roe Leaflet published by Walthamstow Antiquarian Society. Exhibition "The Walthamstow Marshes - the Fen in the City", initially at Vestry House Museum, then at local libraries.
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